I think it’s time for a burger post where I tell you that yes, you should go at least once. After all, burgers aren’t posh. They’re not meant to be posh. However, there are exceptionally good burgers, good burgers, burgers, and BAD BURGERS DON’T EVEN GO THERE types.
This is a good burger.
The Porterhouse at Killiney Road is a meat joint that has a warm and attentive host, a comfortable classy setting, and an array of protein meals and wine on their list. I like that they make no pretensions of being the “best” place for a certain type of meal; it really is just a nice place to unwind with a sit-down dinner or a drink outside on the pathway that connects all the Killiney Road eateries.
Well obviously, I had the burger. It’s the only burger on the menu and I like that it stays true to what I believe a burger should be: beef, cheese, and trimmings. To be honest, I thought the bun was going to be black (it is called “Black Beer Bun”), but in hindsight, it was probably baked with … beer?
The salad was decently dressed – your typical olive oil + balsamic vinegar mix which wasn’t too overpowering, but gave enough of the sour sting which happily did not linger in my mouth. The steak fries could’ve been a little crispier but maybe that was my fault – this is a place where you can and should request how you want your steak fries to be. Apparently I was the only person who asked for mustard as a dip – so here goes, if you prefer mustard over ketchup or chilli, please go for mustard. Ketchup was so yesterday.
Now onto the actual burger itself. The bun was lightly toasted, and very airy despite its brioche-like texture. I had my burger done medium, and it was lovely. There was a more umami-like flavor as opposed to mere savory (read: salt and pepper), and the patty held its shape without being too densely packed. The patty was about half an inch thick, and the insides were barely pink and still moist. Mushrooms on a burger are always smart – you know how vegetarians substitute shrooms for meat? Well, it’s because shrooms have a almost meaty texture – heavy and chewy, soaks up sauces and oils well – so it does add onto the taste of the patty.
But of course not all burgers are perfect – my single gripe is the amount of mayo on the burger. You can see the amount that’s squirted over the pickles AND the bottom of the patty. No need, no need! A burger isn’t about the sauces – it’s about the MEAT. The patty! A juicy, well-made burger does NOT NEED extra moisture from mayo or any other sauces. I personally find mayo too cloying, so if they remove half the mayo amount, it may have been closer to a really good burger.
That said, I like that a lot of care was put into this burger. The patty = well-seasoned, packed nicely, and still juicy. The caramelized onions still retained a sweet bite instead of turning to mush, and the pickles tasted fresh and complemented the sweetness of the onions. The bun also retained its structure – you know how some buns just turn into a soggy mess when all the patty juices come out? Not this one.
Go and visit, and let me know what you think. If I were feeling flush or needed a treat, I’d go and visit this place for the burgers and the warm tableside service.